Monday, May 21, 2012

The Conquering of Wenbi Mountain.


On Sunday Brandon and I finally conquered Wenbi Mountain. We talked about it enough, and even attempted it last week but did not succeed. We were determined not to fail this time, but success was not easy. I'd say this was the one of the toughest hikes I have ever done. It was about 3,000 ft of climbing, which isn't too terrible, and took about 6 hours to reach the peak, which isn' that terrible either. The hard part was that there was little to no trails. Most of our trip was straight bushwhacking through the dense forest. If we were lucky enough to find a path it would disappear after a few minutes. We got the impression very few people hike this mountain, and at least not the route we took. But so long a we could make out the peak of the mountain between the tall trees we could forge a path through the tangle of branches, vines and bushes.

First we had to bike about 15 minutes south of our village. After locking up our bikes by a construction site we set through this tunnel into the wilderness.

For the first two hours there were some trails cutting through the foothills. We could tell that these trails were not used for weekend hikers because there was no garbage on the path (sad but true) We figured the only other people that might use these trails were people searching for herbs, roots and fungi to be used for traditional Chinese medicine. These kindly folks are steeped in Buddhist and Daoist philosophies and would never upset the balance of nature on purpose.

After a few hours we made it through the foothills to the actual mountain. The road quickly turned into a steep incline of loose soil. But everything was covered in moss, and it was very beautiful and magical.

From the lower peak, a view of our home Lashi Lake.

Looking out toward Lashihai.


Practicing my Crane-Kick

At the top of Wenbi Mountain is this Buddhist shrine. The peak is about 11,400 feet.

Brendan, Buddha, Brandon.

In the end, it got too late to go back down the way we came. Trudging through thick forest in the dark without lights wasn't too appealing. We decided we had to descend down the Lijiang City side of teh mountain instead of the Lashihai side. Only problem was that we locked our bikes up on the Lashihai side. But during our walk down the mountain I flagged down a nice farmer and he agreed to take us down the hill in the back of his tractor. It would have been an tiring trek to the bottom after having already hiked to the peak. Then we made it home and passed out out of exhaustion. 


Tuesday, May 15, 2012

What can be done?



I often go running in the forests and foothills of Horse Saddle Mountain. I hadn't been out there for a few weeks because I had spent some time in Beijing, but yesterday I went running again and found that in my absence one of the many horse corrals surrounding Lashi Lake had poured concrete paths through the forest to make improvements to their tourism industry. I thought the forest was fine with just a dirt path, but I don't guide horses for a living so what do I know. What really sucks about the situation is after the workers were done the they just threw the used cement bags on the side of the newly paved path.


Today Brandon and I went back to take some photos and pick up the old cement bags. It was kind of a useless gesture as there was still a bunch of other trash strewn about the place by who-knows-who?


I have always been frustrated by how Chinese workers mix their cement. They dump the dry cement mix into a pile on the ground, make a little pit on the top of the mound to mix in water, and work their way down till the cement is finished. But what is left over every single time is a hard concrete slab the size of original cement pile, leaving that patch of ground absolutely useless. Me and Brandon had to break one apart that was left in our backyard after some workers came and built us some walkways. 


Brandon is not happy at all. Notice in the background that the trail just stops suddenly? Most of the trails didn't seem to start and stop with any purpose, they were just put there to be there, almost like the horse corral had a bunch of cement bags laying around and didn't know what else to do with them.


They also put up these beautiful new signs naming the different trails that tourists get to ride on. This one is named the 'Wild Flower Valley' 野花谷. Sounds beautiful doesn't it? But did anyone think about how beautiful it would to see a bunch of trash and cement bag along the trail? Probably not, and I am not surprised. These forest trails are covered in garbage, mostly thrown by the horse riding tourists. Cigarette packs, water and beer bottles, candy wrappers... But these tourists might get their cues from the locals who visit one of the many cemeteries in the foothills bringing with them paper money to burn for the dead (chinese tradition) Not only are the cemeteries absolutely littered with this sacrificial money, but every inch of trail before and after the cemetery is also covered with. If you were to spend just one day picking it up A.) there would still be plenty left on the ground B.) you would be filthy stinking rich in fake ghost money.  Oddly, the fake notes are labeled as Hell Bank......


We picked up 15 bags, and counted 5 cement mixing spots. We are sure there are more cement bags that had just been blown away by the wind. Lots of the bags we did find we pulled from out of the trees. Now at each one of the 24 horse corrals around Lashi Lake (and we have been to all of them) is a sign from the local government listing rules and regulations, one of which is it is illegal to throw your garbage on the ground. As of last year in China it is also illegal to smoke in public indoor places like restaurants and hotels, http://articles.latimes.com/2011/apr/30/world/la-fg-china-smoke-20110430 
but anyone living in China today knows what a hilarious joke that is. There is absolutely no enforcement. Like it says in that above article 'The costumer is God.' If they want to smoke inside they can smoke inside. When we interviewed the 24 horse corral owners (at least the ones who would answer our questions) they said it would be rude of them to require their clients NOT to litter on the trails they are visiting for the afternoon. And so making these laws are simply an act, feigning an attempt to keep the public healthy from second-hand smoke, same as making littering illegal. No politician actually cares about protecting the environment, but it looks like they do.

What can be done? After seeing the cement bags and other garbage yesterday I had one idea of simply posting sign along the trails (just below the new signs posted by the horse corrals) reminding their patrons that they are Guests to Lashi Lake and to the forest and that they need to treat it with respect and not treat it like a garbage can. Well... I mentioned this idea to the director of our Environmental Protection NGO, and I was quite surprised that he shot the idea down faster than one of the horse corral owners probably would have. Hell one the horse corral owner might have even been in favor of the sign, you know, to feign an attempt to do the right thing but not actually make any effort to enforce it.
Our director was certain most people would see the sign and simply ignore it, which unfortunately in most cases would probably be true, but it would work for some people, and isn't that enough reason to go through with this amazing easy and simple plan????? "Besides, we are not a environmental watch-dog, we are an environmental educational group" he told us. Brandon and I thought it made a good bit of sense to use two strategies at the same time to be more effective. (we are putting up the sign regardless of our negative nancy boss)



One the way back from cleaning up the trails we run into these villagers cutting down trees, most likely to burn as fuel. In 1998 China issued a nation-wide ban on all logging. They government issued this just after the flooding of the Yangtze River that killed 3,000 people and left 14 million homeless, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1998_Yangtze_River_floods  The cause of the flooding was traced back to  Yunnan and Sichuan Provinces where excessive logging had stripped hills of their forest cover causing water to runoff into the rivers instead of soaking into the soil. This causes the rivers down steam to have more water flowing through its valleys (flood) than if the water had been absorbed into the soil up river.


Because most people use the trees as fuel in their kitchens an alternative fuel had to be found. Luckily it was already in existence. Biogas.  http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Biogas I can't sing enough praises about biogas. Its amazing! You use the poop you get after eating, to create gas, that you use to cook the food to create the poop thats create the gas that cooks the food that will............... you get the idea, it's a brilliant little system that provides a free, sustainable energy source. The government subsidized the construction of over 6,000,000 biogas digesters, mostly in Yunnan and Sichuan Provinces to be used as an alternative to cutting down tree to burn for fuel. But people don't like to use them, deforestation is easier than maintaining a biogas digester, which is incredibly easy to maintain if you know how to do it. Thats the other problem with solutions to problems within China. The government came in, build a bunch of digesters, then left without making sure people knew how to properly use them. So now days majority of the 6,000,000 biogas digesters in China go unused. We try to get people around Lashi Lake to start using their biogas digesters again, using the unimaginable amount of horse manure that paves each and every road around the lake. But it is more convenient to break the unenforced ban on logging, cut down the forest and wait for the Yangtze to flood again.

It gets harder and harder to give a shit when it seems like nobody else does.

If you are interested in learning about just how screwed the Chinese environment is/will become, I recommend reading this great/depressing book "When A Billion Chinese Jump" http://site.whenabillionchinesejump.com/

In all fairness one can't be too upset with the Chinese mindset to consumer culture and neglect to the environment, after all China has only been in sync with the world economy for about twenty years and is just following the model of mass consumption and environmental degradation that was perfected for half a century by us in the western hemisphere.



Friday, May 11, 2012

FISHY!!!

One of our neighbors brought us some more fish today! So Brandon and I, now experienced fish gutters got to work. This family ran into some misfortune shortly after we arrived in Yunnan, and part of their house burned down while no one was home. The community and our NGO have done all we can to help out and get them assistance. The fish are one way the can thank the community for their help.
Freshly caught fish.

Freshly gutted fish.

Brandon enjoying gutting fish a bit too much..

Thursday, May 10, 2012

Going to the Farmers Market



Going to the farmers market is the best way to view the local culture and customs anywhere in the world. Each Thursday Brandon and myself go to our local market to buy our fruit, veggies and what ever else we might need, and we get a good look at the local Naxi ethnic minority. You can pretty much get what ever you might need while living on a farm. Tools to pesticides, meats to treats, shoes to hats. And something that Brandon and I noticed this morning at the market is that after three months the locals are starting to recognize us! Not that they didn't recognize us after our very first visit, we quite obviously stand out from everyone else, But people are saying hello to us and being friendly. Some of these folks are the ones whose fields we were working in planting corn a few weeks back.

THINGS TO BUY


Meat Market.
Doesn't that pig head look yummy?


Heres where ye buy yer brooms and baskets.
Cookies and sweet breads.

...Not to mention random horns from assorted animals.
Traditional Chinese Medicine.
Those are herbs and roots and fungi...

Tools of all sorts. Household needs.
Water jugs, hooks and hangers....
                                                     

Ducks, chickens, pigs.
Traditional Naxi clothing. Aprons, shawls,
the while thing in the center is a sort
of cape most women wear.


BANANAS und ORANGES

NOODLES!!!!











THE NAXI PEOPLE AT THE MARKET
Blue aprons, blue hats and blue anything is the signature style for the Naxi people. I fit right in with my blue sweatshirt.




















Tuesday, May 8, 2012

Beijing Trip In Pictures

My bicycle taken apart and ready to make the trip to Beijing with me. I have been to BJ before and know that it is very easy to get around if you have your own transportation, plus I knew I would be playing some bike polo with the Beijing team so I had to bring it along. It is easy to get around as the city is just a huge grid The only draw back would be the extremely poor air quality. According to the Air Quality Index healthy air is in the 0-50 range. The first few days I was in Beijing we had a few 350 days. After a day of biking in those condition your throat is sore and your head aches.
Mission #1 of going to Beijing was to apply for a Russian Visa at the embassy. Here is the receipt for my visa. In the center is my name written in the Russian Cyrillic alphabet, АЛЛЄН БРЄНДАН ДЖОН (Allen Brendan John) Then I purchased my train ticket for the Trans-Siberian Railroad. In June I will embark on a 7-day journey from Beijing to Moscow. I anticipate discovering a new side of myself, one in which you can only discover after having sat a train non-stop for 7 days. This is the first step of this summers adventure in Europe. I will spend a few days in Moscow before going to a friends wedding in Bologna Italy, then I will bike where-ever through Europe killing time until the 4th World Bike Polo Championships in Geneva.



This is my third trip to Beijing. But each time I somehow missed out on going to the Great Wall of China. So on wednesday, when everyone I knew had to go back to work after the May 1st holiday I decided I would bike there and back. Luckily it was a gorgeous day with very little pollution and clear skies. I got some direction from a friend to a section of the wall with much less tourists, I think I was there with only 15 other people. It took 4 1/2 hours to bike about 75km through the mountains to get there. There is the wall snaking up the mountain behind me.
With the help of some other travelers I was able to hoist my bike atop the Great Wall of China to take this picture. You are not allowed to climb along this section of the wall, but I did not bike 4 1/2 hours Not to walk on the wall, so take that Chinese Govt.


Folks say you can see the Great Wall of China from the moon. WRONG! The equivalent would be like trying to see a single hair from two miles away. Even the first Chinese in space Yang Liwei said it was a big ole lie. Look at the wall, its the same color as the rocks it sits upon. How could you see that from space?!?!? So... if you or someone you know is helping to spread that lie, please do your part to set the facts straight. No matter how amazing a feat building the Great Wall is, it's still not that amazing.

Probably one of reasons you can't walk on the wall is that it is falling apart like in this photo. 

At one end the wall breaks to go over this reservoir.

This was one of my first views of the wall, probably still 45 minutes or so away from the wall. Test your eyes, the wall is stretching from one side of this photo to the other, can ye see it??? 
Flying to and from Beijing we stopped over in Wanzhou to re-fuel, and sitting next to the tarmac were these two awesome Chinese Yun-5 biplanes. It hard to see, but the markings on the side indicate it was part of the Chongqing Three Gorges Aviation Company, 重庆三峡通航。

When I got back to Lashihai and the Green Education Center I found out that we got some new additions to our family. These are some of the fifteen new chicks we got for our coup. Also the Swallows that live in the rafters above our walkway hatched to eggs as well. So I left three chickens and two swallows, and came back to eighteen chickens and four swallows. Our piggies had also grow quite large in just under two weeks.